This place is criminally underrated. It has unfortunately been overshadowed by the nearby Terracotta Warriors (don’t get me wrong, that’s also a must-do). The Qin Dynasty unified China, but the Han Dynasty created its identity. The site itself has an underground museum, which was a genius move. The original pits were left in-situ, and they built the museum around it. You can see the pits right beneath your feet, and get up close from the sides. It’s amazing to contrast it with the Qin Terracotta Army; life-sized vs miniature status, and an army vs people doing everyday things. Where the former was built on conquest, the latter was built on sustainable statescraft. The complex is huge and there was barely anyone. No tour groups, and most of the times i only see 1-2 others in each room. Xi’An is the historical centre of gravity of China, and if you’re here, you have to explore the Qin, Han and Tang legacy